Mason-Dixon Sewing Company
Authentic, Quality Reenactment Clothing
for the Civil War reenacting hobby

Mid-19th Century Clothing Research

Researching the time period that you are portraying is key to becoming a reenactor, or interpreter.  It is our duty as  reenactors to present ourselves as accurately as possible in the time period we are portraying to the spectator.

Study original examples of photographs and clothing whenever possible.  We are lucky to have photography during the Civil War era where we can pick up certain details and mannerisms.

Diaries have true accounts of how people lived their lives, sometimes even describing the clothing that they wore.  By studying original examples we can see into the lives of people of the past.

The Photographers stage-like studio in wintertime.

Notice the ladies knitted hoods and many furs

Women’s Mid-19th Century Clothing

Drawers- The first piece of clothing a lady would put on.

Chemise- The chemise looks like a long nightgown; in fact they were used as nightgowns.  It is worn over the drawers and was used to keep the corset clean and from rubbing against the body.

Corset- The corset goes on next over the chemise.  It gives the proper foundation for the dress bodice.

Cage Crinoline or Hoop- applied after corset.  This is the wire shaped contraption that was very popular during the time period and is what gives you the proper dress silhouette.

Petticoat- To be worn over the hoop.  The petticoat keeps the boning of the hoop from showing through and adds softness to the skirt.  It is an essential part of the lady’s wardrobe.

Dress - Finally, the dress is put on over top of the head and adjusted accordingly.

Cotton Mills

Consequently,  the Civil War caused cotton shortages and high prices.  The Union blockades disrupted supply lines which meant rising costs.  This made a lack of Southern cotton and textile mills throughout the north shut down.  The cotton trade never really recovered after the war.

This effected the demand for fabrics throughout the country.  Rich women were accustomed to being in fashion and could afford to be, while poor women remade older garments by reworking sleeves and turning skirts.

Red printed cotton dress with nice pocket of utilitarian fabric

Lavender printed cotton dress.

Lovely sheer cotton dress with v neckline and ruffled skirt  
 Courtsey of Shippensburg Fashion Archives

Sheer summer dress probably of cotton gauze.
The underbodice has a low neckline and sleeves are
unlined suitable for the hot summer months.

Beautiful aqua sheer gauze summer ballgown. 
 A long berthe with rows of ruched ribbon and trimmed with silk fringe.
Courtesy of Shippinsburg Fashion Archives

Fine, sheer cotton embroidered undersleeves

Winter hoods  of silk taffeta with decorative brims